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8 Most Important Questions to Ask Yourself When Buying a High-End
Watch (Adapted from "Close-Up Luxury Watches" by Joe Thompson, Esquire,
November 2003)
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Questions to Ask When Buying High-End Watch
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- How Much Money Do You Want to Spend?
Luxury watches range from just under $1,000 to
$100,000 and more. Among the most expensive are the prized
tourbillions, which only an elite group of master watchmakers has
the skills to produce. (The two hundred-year-old mechanism
consists of a revolving carriage that holds the balance wheel and
escapement and makes a complete turn every sixty seconds to
average out timekeeping errors caused by gravity.) A watch
is inevitably a status symbol, and it's up to you to figure out
what kind of status you want to symbolize. If you really serious,
luxury watch makers are ready to accommodate.
While we at poljotwatch.com do not have the $100k
tourbillions for you, all of our wristwatches are high quality
mechanical timepieces priced well under $1,000 and compare in
craftsmanship to many luxury watch brands.
- Steel or Titanium?
Luxury and high-quality watchmakers, including
Poljot, are turning out product in high-grade stainless steel,
which is strong an shiny and highly resistant to rust and
corrosion. But the next major trend seems to be titanium,
which is 30 percent stronger and 50 percent lighter than steel,
more corrosion resistant, antimagnetic, and even hypoallergic.
A titanium watch does feel amazingly light and comfortable on the
wrist, but the trade-off is a subdued - some say dull - gray
watch, that for all its strength, scratches easily.
Most of the Aviator and Poljot watches and chronographs are
made out of high-grade stainless steel, but we have a few models
made out of titanium. If you prefer to really "feel" your
chronograph on your wrist, as steel watches weight more, then
check out for the
Aviator,
Navigator,
or
Buran lines.
- Mechanical or Quartz?
The movement, which is the engine of the watch,
measures time in one of two ways: electronically or mechanically.
In an electronic watch, a paper-thin piece of quartz is given an
electric charge that causes it to vibrate 32,768 times per second.
This makes it accurate to within a minute per year. A mechanical
watch has a mainspring whose gradual unwinding moves the watch’s
hands. Mechanical movements are either hand wound or automatic
(also called “self-winding”), meaning the movement winds itself
using a rotor that spins in response to the natural movement of
the wearer’s arm. Mechanical watches lose an hour a year.
We specialize in mechanical watches, so all Poljot watches are
mechanical with complicated movements. Our movements are highly
accurate with an average deviation of -10 to +20 seconds per day.
We make both automatic and hand wound watches. If you would
like to learn more about our movements, please visit our
About Our Movements page.
- Simple or Complicated?
In watchmaking terms, a complication is any
function beyond simple time telling in a mechanical watch, such as
a calendar or a moon-phase indicator. Usually, though, term refers
to sophisticated mechanisms like perpetual calendars and
split-second chronographs, which contain hundreds of tiny parts
hand assembled by the world’s most accomplished watchmakers.
Because they are so labor-intensive, complicated watches are
expensive and prized for the feats they perform.
Most Poljot watches are “complicated” – many are chronographs
with various capabilities, like dates of the month, military time
indicators, and moon-phase calendars – all hand-crafted in Russia
with the help of high-precision Swiss machinery.
- Big or Bigger?
Over the last few years, men’s wristwatches
have grown as if on steroids; they broke the forty-millimeter
diameter a few years ago and are still pumping up. The reason?
Mostly style. The current trend was largely inspired by the recent
reissue of an old Italian diver’s watch, which was originally
designed large so it would be visible in the murky Mediterranean.
These days, if your watch looks like a hockey puck on your wrist,
you’re horologically chic, if a bit showy.
Aviator and Poljot watches are designed in line with current
watch trends and styles. Most of our models are bigger than 38
millimeter in diameter, with some reaching 42 millimeters, so you
do not have to worry about not being horologically chic. The large
Poljot watch cases serve dual purpose - they are practical for
easy reading of the instrument dials and they look very good on
your wrist.
- Round or Square?
Round is still the most common face shape, but
a revival of alternatives is afoot. The tonneau (shaped like a
barrel) is leading the nonround-watch pack at the moment, but your
options include rectangles, squares, and ovals, among others. Many
people will size a man up by his watch, so consider an uncommon
shape might set you apart from the masses.
We offer various shapes for you to choose from. The most common
is round, but if you are interested in tonneau, there are a few
great models in the
Buran line. If tank square is your style, Navigator
Ocean,
Alpha and
Military chronograph models are available for you.
- Do I Need a Chronograph?
Most guys prize chronographs – timepieces with
a stopwatch function – thanks to the macho, sporty look of all
those buttons and subdials. They are also functional and can time
an event to one fifth of a second for mechanical chronos and to
one hundredth of a second in digital quartz chronos. But unless
you’ve just signed up for the Ironman, they’re mostly for
adornment.
Majority of what we make are high-quality Poljot chronographs.
The Poljot 3133 chronograph movement and its complications, like
the 31681 and 31682 are well-known to watch collectors around the
World. Recently, the WatchTime magazine named the Russian
Poljot 3133 mechanical movement one of the 28 most popular
complications and more important chronographs on the market.
- Five Bars or Twenty?
Watches have different levels of water
resistance, indicated on the dial or case back. Pay close
attention to that fine print, because the depth units are anything
but universal. Most companies give water resistance in meters.
Occasionally you’ll come across ATMs (for atmospheres) or bars,
both of which are equal to ten meters. Once you’ve done the match,
choose a depth based on you needs. Water resistant to fifty
meters means that you can expose the watch to some water, like a
light summer shower or water splashes while washing dishes in the
sink. Sports watches generally have hundred-meter (swimming,
snorkeling) or two-hundred-meter (recreational scuba diving) water
resistance.
Poljot watches are generally rated 30 to 50 meter
water-resistant. If you'd like to learn more about what you
can do with a watch depending on its water-resistance
characteristics, please visit our
Water Resistance Guide.
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